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February 20

No. 1 in World Top Blogs

My new blog  is ranked No. 1 in WORLD TOP BLOGS, as voted for by bloggers from all over the world. It has also been named as ONE OF THE MOST INFLUENTIAL BLOGS IN THE WORLD  by the Mexican news site, El Universal. To visit it click :
                     >Here!
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February 15

Re: Memories of an Englishman in Korea

Sorry, I have removed this entry as it is going to appear as an article in Dark Roasted Blend

February 05

The post office where you can't post anything

My Uncle Sid is dying.  He's my  favourite uncle, doesn't deserve to die, but he is: the prostate cancer has spread.  It's his birthday this month: inevitably his last. He's not into computers and he's not online. So, I wanted to send him a final birthday card. I went to a lot of trouble choosing the right card in a greetings card store in Muscat, the capital of Oman, because getting the right card with the right words was important.

I went to my local post office, here in Salalah, to post the card at 3.10pm, but it had closed for the day. There were no opening times anywhere to be seen so when it was open was anybody's guess. Opening hours in Oman vary considerably from one place to another and nobody seems too sure when any of them are. So, you just have to keep turning up at the door and hope that one day you'll find the place open. It's a hit and miss affair. So, the next day, I went back to the post office at 1.50pm. It was closed.


I wasn't going to give up. I tried again the next day at 12.50 pm. The post office was open ! I smiled, almost punched the air. My uncle was going to get his birthday card. I walked in with a big smile still on my face. I hesitated for a moment. The post office, a large grey concrete building, seemed deserted. Then I noticed a clerk at one of the counters. He was staring down at the counter as if he didn't want to be seen. I gave a polite 'Assalamualaikum" greeting, put the card, in its neatly addressed envelope, on the counter and told him, in Arabic, that it was to go to England. He grunted, picked his nose, rubbed his face and generally procrastinated. Then, an Omani man walked in. The clerk turned to him and they chatted for five minutes. The gist of the conversation was that he couldn't deal with the paperwork the Omani man presented him with. He then proceeded to give lengthy convoluted directions to where he thought the Omani man should go.

The Omani man left. The post office clerk glanced down at the birthday card in front of him and seemed annoyed that it was still there. Anyway, he  decided to ignore it and started shuffling papers without actually looking at them. Then another Omani man walked in. The same thing happened all over again. The clerk proceeded to explain why he couldn't do anything to help him and sent him on his way with complicated directions, which seemed to end up somewhere in the Empty Quarter.

After the second man had left, the clerk and I looked down at the birthday card once more. He asked me, 'Where is it for?' I told him again, 'England.' He shuffled some more papers. Then he opened and closed some drawers. He started to look under some of the papers and even under his tea cup. He picked his nose and rubbed his face again, which made me look away. There was a silence of perhaps one minute in which I guessed he was hoping another Omani would come in whom he could also tell to politely go away. Then, when no one else appeared, he for a brief moment almost made eye contact with me and said, 'No stamps.' I asked him, in a quiet, slightly tense voice, 'Where can I buy a stamp?




He replied, with a shrug of the shoulders, 'I don't know.'


As I left, I noticed the sign above his head. It said, in both English and Arabic, 'Stamps.'






January 30

A Tomb with a View

Salalah is famous for its tombs of famous religious figures. There is for example, next to Lulu supermarket, the tomb of the father of the Virgin Mary, although there is the possibility that it might not be. But, nils deperandum, as it is said that, if he wasn't the father of the Virgin Mary, then he must have been the father of Moses (or somebody good anyway). I guess you could say this tomb has killed two birds with one stone. The sarcophagus is 33 m long, so there is plenty of room for conjecture. One there is little doubt about (well, there is a little, as he has another tomb in Lebanon) is Job's tomb. This is the mausoleum of Job of the Old Testament, known as the Prophet Ayub in the Koran. He is probably best known for the misquote "The Lord giveth and the Lord taketh away."

Both the Bible and the Koran say that he was an enormously rich man whose wealth was taken from him, and who was afflicted with a terrible skin disease, but he never despaired, remained loyal to God and was eventually rewarded by being made even richer and restored to full health. Hence the idiomatic expression, to be as patient as Job. By the way, what Job actually said, according to the Bible, was, "Naked came I out of my mother's womb, and naked shall I return thither: the Lord gave, and the Lord hath taken away."

His simple tomb is on a pretty hilltop, with great views of Salalah, the coast and the surrounding countryside.

Another very nice tomb is on just off the road to Mirbat. This is
the tomb of Mohammed bin Ali Al-Alawi, a descendant of the son-in-law of the Prophet Mohammed, who set up a madrassa (religious school) in Mirbat and died here in 1161. This abundance of nice tombs has given rise to tomb tourists: little groups of people who tour the tombs in taxis.


 











January 26

Living in La La Land

There is a beautiful African Paradise Flycatcher that sits on a branch outside my window, deserted beaches where I swim with dolphins, there are storks and eagles in the mountains, banana, papaya and coconut plantations by the roadsides, camels wandering along the roads, a sultan's palace and a frankincense souq. It is said that the Queen of Sheba once had a palace here too. Where am I? You might think I must be living in La La Land, but this place is for real and I'm living in Salalah.
 
Not many people outside the Arabian Peninsula seem to know about Salalah, except for a few Swedish tourists who fly down here for the winter sun, the occasional group of birdwatchers, and the migrant workers from Kerala and the Philippines who work in the shops, hotels and restaurants.
 
So, where, you might ask, is this place? Well, it stands on the north-western shore of the Indian Ocean, a two-hour drive from the Yemeni border and a twelve hour drive, through the Dhofar mountains and across the desert, to Muscat. It is an area known as the Land of Frankincense and it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
 
The city reached its peak in the 12th century, when it traded with Africa, India and China. Its major export was frankincense, but it also traded Arabian horses and gold. During the 14th century it was still a major trading port, when it was visited by Ibn Battuta.
 
To be contd.
 

 
 




January 22

Photo competition

I've just entered an AirMiles photo competition. The theme is 'People in Faraway Places' and as I've taken photos of a lot of people in a lot of faraway places, I thought, why not give it a go? The problem is you are only allowed to submit one photo.

Finally, I decided on this portrait of an Afghan refugee girl, called Fatimah, I met outside a bazaar in Iran. She has a haunting kind of beauty that perhaps, like Sharbat Gula's, Steve McCurry's famous Afghan Girl with Green Eyes in National Geographic,
won't stand the rigors of time, but I hope I've captured it forever in this picture. I discovered, by chance, that an Italian children's charity is already using it on their website, without asking my permission, but as it's a charity, I don't mind. In fact, I'll even give them a bit of publicity:

 Il Paese dei Bambini che sorridono


Trip to the Big City

I like living in Salalah. It has a beautiful location between palm-fringed beaches, banana and coconut plantations and the Dhofar Mountains. But, it is a relatively small city and so there are some things it just doesn't have. I flew up to Muscat for a meeting this week and after it had finished I had a few hours to spare and went to the Muscat City Centre shopping mall. I felt like a boy from the sticks, awestruck by the amazing variety of things on sale. There was a Borders bookstore, with thousands of English books - something you just cannot find in Salalah. I bought five: 'The Time Traveler's Wife', 'The Alchemist', 'No Country for Old Men' 'On Chesil Beach' and 'A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush'. I was looking for 'The Book Thief', but they didn't stock it. Perhaps they thought it might encourage shoplifting. There was also a massive Carrefour, full of goodies, from which I bought, amongst other things, some fresh pasta. It's amazing the things you take for granted, like books and pasta, when you are in your home country.





December 22

MISSING: Ani Ashekian

 "Ani Ashekian: A Young Woman Missing in Hong Kong
I am writing to you seeking help to find our Daughter, our Sister, our Best Friend.

Ani is a bright, adventurous and vibrant young woman who has a passion for travel.
Her most recent trip was to Asia - specifically to China, India Vietnam and Cambodia. Before her departure Ani only had enough time to secure a visa to China and decided she would get the other necessary travel visa's while abroad.

She left the Toronto International airport on Friday, October 24th and was scheduled to return on the 15th of December.
The fact that Ani did not board her flight home on that day was not a surprise to her friends and family for they already knew something was amiss.
Initially, Ani had kept in regular contact with her family and friends during the trip.
However, November 10th was the last that anyone has heard from Ani.
When the calls and emails abruptly stopped people began to worry.
Ani's visa statement shows 2 cash advances on the 10th of November, it is unclear whether these withdrawls were made under duress.
She has not used her visa card or her bank card since that day.
Her passport indicates that she entered Hong Kong on November 9th but that she has not left Hong Kong.

Foreign Affairs, a private investigator and the media have been contacted.
We are working on setting up a trust fund in her sister's name to help her family pay for the cost of the private investigator."

Wenddell@hotmail.com
rashekia@sympatico.ca
 
The Ashekian family

December 04

A picture which appeared to be all left that turned out to be all right

Looking through my photos of Nicaragua, I came across this one, which I'd initially discarded as a totally unbalanced composition, but then I stopped and really LOOKED at it.

For all the things that are happening on the left - the indigenous fresco of a man with a crocodile head, the precious transaction in the ramshackle stall which needs to be shielded from public view, the young woman walking so fast to a destination which
makes her feel very anxious, the little girl who's escaped from her too small shoes, the baby left in a hotel doorway - the one that speaks of human warmth, is there on the right:  the pink baseball cap placed on a fire hydrant in the hope that whoever dropped it will see it.





December 01

Two Poems by Roger McGough

 

Omanis, like all Arabs, have a much keener interest in poetry than English people do. So, I was not particularly surprised when an Omani student asked me the other day, if I could tell him an English poem. I could only think of these two by Roger McGough. I wonder what he made of them? Be scratching his head for a while, I think. Confused 

 

My cat and i

 

Girls are simply the prettiest things
My cat and i believe
And we're always saddened
When it's time for them to leave

We watch them titivating
(that oft
en takes a while)
And though they keep us waiting
My cat and i just smile

We like to see them to the door
Say how sad it couldn't last
Then my cat and i go back inside
And talk about the past.

 

 

If Life’s a Lousy Picture, Why Not Leave Before the End

 

Don’t worry
One night we’ll find that deserted Kinema
The torches extinguished
The Cornish ripples locked away in the safe
The tornoff tickets chucked
In the tornoff shotbin
The projectionist gone home to his nightmare

Don’t worry
That film will still be running
(the one about the sunset)
& we’ll find two horses
tethered in the front stalls
& we’ll mount
& we’ll ride off

............. into

 

 

...........................our

...................................happy

.............................................ending